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Spitfire DeAgostini - Tonys Build


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Hi guys. 

Well, progress has been slow here, but i am slowly gaining pace. I am now up to issue 5, but my pictures are a little behind. 

 

When i fist got this model. My friend saved it from going into the bin. Unfortunately i was missing the first 15 or 16 issues, But many thanks has to go to Kesto for making a set of paper plans from his parts. This has meant i am able to complete this model, 

 

So, i thought about the best way of going ahead. I needed to be able to use the plans, time and time again. So i started to make them into templates. 

 

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this will allow me to make perfect templates from kesto`s plans. some minor adjustments are required, as it is with any from plan build. 

But i have to say, so far so good. 

 

 

1F5EE932-8A05-4E63-B377-7131EDEC5E5B.jpg

 

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I am making this mostly out of balsa sheet, i know originally it has lite ply former's, but i will be strengthening up any former that i think may require it, or i may add pieces of fiberglass to the weaker sections. I am not sure yet. 

 

The balsa i am using seems very good quality, nice even grain, and uniform density. it is very easy to cut, but i am trying to take my time to get the parts to fit without glue first. Then once i have them in place, i can drop the CA glue on the joints to secure them. 

 

More to come soon, as i am now on issue 5 (last picture i think is at issue 3) 

 

Thank you. Please feel free to post any recommendations, or comments, all are greatly received. 

 

 

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crossing fingers!

If you plan to make it electric be really careful with weight, fiber glass would be last thing to use here. Instead carbon reinforcements would be recommended, Apparently section you are showing is an engine fire wall? If so balsa is a wrong choice here. With all the rest you can go for lighter solutions but this part needs to be ply wood.
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I agree dukeroger. it is the firewall you see, but the design calls for a 2nd firewall, this will be mounted directly onto the balsa firewall, thus strengthening it. it will be made from lite ply, as will the mounting system, very much the same as Kesto has done. I will post more pictures when i have finished issue 6 :) 

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interesting duke. i may not completely remove the balsa, but being as i have to make holes for the motor wires and cooling air to come through, i will be removing a lot of it, by the way, we are on about the firewall for those who may be a little lost in the conversation. :) 

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Thanks Dukeroger. 

I will be modifying that when i have the majority of the fuse built. it will be done almost the same as Kesto has done. Why change what works :) but instead of 2 sets of magnets holding it down, i intend to use a set of retaining dowels in the front, then magnets in the rear. but still opening up the exhausts fully once i have their location, this is for adding air flow. 

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Jesteś pewien, że dwa kołki i dwa magnesy to dobre rozwiązanie? :P

Pomyśl jak będziesz to otwierał, jak klapa będzie między dwoma wręgami.

Tą klapę możesz podnieść tylko i wyłącznie do góry. Magnesy to umożliwiają, ale kołki będą ją blokowały.

Pomyśl jeszcze raz zanim coś zrobisz. Korzystaj ze sprawdzonych rozwiązań. :)

Robota czysta i miło się na to patrzy.

 

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Wow duke, she is a beautiful plane. 

 

It has just occurred to me the issue i would have with the front pins, i would have to have a large gap at the back of the hatch so i could rotate it upwards. 

 

i do not like the idea of a hatch that could come off mid flight, so i want to go down a more mechanical route, maybe something similar to yours duke, but with it hinged like a door, and some sort of latch to keep it in place once shut. As i do intend to have as much air pass through to cool the battery and ESC as possible, 

 

Idfx pm sent :) 

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Thank you for kind words; there are similarities between your build and this model (Svenson Wayfarer); both were intended for petrol engines and both were quite old fashioned with respect to structure. So lot of effort to lighten structure and still have reliable model. If you take a closer look to hatch on pictures you will notice how solid closing it is. Securing arrangement is based on 4 composite hooks (1mm composite from electronic boards). This is securing hatch in vertical direction, movable pin secures it horizontally. Whatever you decide I would suggest to have possibility of removing hatch completely. It gives much better access in case of equipment maintenance or removal.

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I see now, i had not seen the 2 hooks mounted to the air frame, or the little latch. I think i will fashion something similar. and you are probably right, having the hatch removable is a better choice. 

 

i am hoping to make more progress on it today, weather here is grey and miserable. So once some housework is done, i may be able to get the knives and sandpaper out :)

 

Tony. 

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  • 3 tygodnie później...

Hi guys, 

 

Sorry for the lack of progress. I have been too busy with life at the moment. 

There has been a slight development in the build though. I found out from the person this kit actually belonged to that he has in fact built the first 16 issues. He is currently pulling them from his loft :)

 

I will still build this fuse, as it will most likely be lighter than his. Plus it will be easier for me to implement the modifications on the bare fuse. 

 

Tony. 

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